Our next stop was the town of LIJIANG (“lee-johng”) in the far southwest of China, in the Yunnan Province. The town is located at about 8,000 feet, but it is far enough south that it has mild weather.
We checked into the Banyan Tree Lijiang. Banyan Tree is known for building small, eco-friendly, luxury properties. This certainly is the case is Lijiang – our hotel room was a “villa” – a separate small house, with complete privacy, including its own small patio and yard and hot tub. The best surprise of all was the view from the bedroom – we looked directly at Jade Snow Dragon Mountain, gorgeous and imposing at nearly 19,000 feet.
WHAT A VIEW!!!
THE ENTRANCE TO OUR VILLA:
OUR VILLA:
NICE BEDROOM!
THE VIEW FROM OUR VILLA -- FROM THE BED:
THE HOT TUB:
NICE BATHROOM!
THE BANYAN TREE GROUNDS:
The next day, we went into old town Lijiang, which is a World Heritage site. The old town is a charming pedestrian town, with water running through it – every street had a small canal with a stream running in it.
We wandered through the old town for a few hours and did not see a single other Caucasian! We walked the back streets, admiring the old houses – shops on the bottom floor, front room, kitchen and a small living area behind the shops, and bedrooms upstairs. We meandered through the market, with fruits, vegetables, live chickens, and lots of bugs, grubs, worms, larva, and animal parts…OLD TOWN LIJIANG -- NOTICE THE GUY BRUSHING HIS TEETH...
THE TOP POOL IS DRINKING WATER, THE SECOND IS FOR WASHING DISHES AND CLOTHES, AND THERE IS A THIRD POOL -- FOR CLEANING MOPS AND OTHER DIRTY WATER:
THE WOMAN IN THE FOREGROUND IS WEARING A TRADITIONAL TIBETAN HEADPIECE
YUMMY FOOD IN OLD TOWN -- PIG'S TAILS...
AND DUCK'S HEADS...
AND CHICKEN FEET...
GRUBS AND WORMS AND BUGS, OH MY!
All of the streets in Old Town Lijiang converge on the central square, so eventually we ended up there. What a sight! There were lots of people, including tourists and locals – even a few old mountain men on their ponies and a large group of women, dancing. We asked if there was a special occasion and our guide said no – the main square is like this all the time!
THE CENTRAL SQUARE OF OLD TOWN LIJIANG:
WHAT A GREAT PHOTO!
WOMEN DANCING IN THE MAIN SQUARE:
A VIEW OF OLD TOWN (WITH OUR GUIDE)
EVERY TOWN HAS AT LEAST ONE STATUE OF MAO...
After old town, we went to Black Dragon Pond, just outside old town. Black Dragon Pond is a beautiful park, with tree-lined pathways, a huge pond, and a wonderful view of Jade Snow Dragon mountain.
THE ENTRANCE TO BLACK DRAGON POND
BLACK DRAGON POND, WITH JADE SNOW DRAGON MOUNTAIN IN THE BACKGROUND:
After Black Dragon Ppond, we had a late lunch. Roger even tried a few of the local delicacies...
GRUBS...
AND WORMS!
After lunch, we went back to Banyan Tree and relaxed.
The next day, we drove out into the countryside, to the foot of Jade Snow Dragon Mountain. We had learned the day before that most of the minorities live in this part of China, and that people are very proud of their minority heritage. We saw lots of people – especially older people – dressed in traditional clothing, with traditional hats, scarves,etc., identifying their heritage.
Our guide took as to a traditional Naxi (“nah-shee”) village. We wandered the streets and stumbled across a group of men playing croquet! Our guide explained that Jade Snow Dragon Mountain is at the end of the Himilayas. During WW II, the British Royal Air Force stopped there to re-fuel, and they taught the locals to play croquet, which continues as a favorite past time today.AT THE NAXI VILLAGE
ROGER LOVED THESE "TRACTORS"
NOW THAT'S A BIG LOAD
THE CROQUET COURT -- WHAT A VIEW
MORE OF THE NAXI VILLAGE
After the village, we went to old town Lijiang to see the old town at night. We almost did not go – wanting to return to the luxury of our villa – but we were soooo glad we went! Old town Lijiang at night is transformed from a sleepy little village into a beautifully-lit, bustling town. There were tons of people, restaurants with traditional music and dancers, and light everywhere. It was fascinating!
We wandered the streets, people-watched, and had a great time, then returned to the tranquility of Banyan Tree for our last night there.OLD TOWN AT NIGHT
The next day, we tearfully said good bye to BT Lijiang, and got in the car for the 4-hour drive to Zhongdian (“jong-dyan”) on the Tibetan plateau. I had wanted to visit Tibet during this trip but, because of the riots earlier in the year, it was hard to get visas, and I had heard that it was not worth going – the place was practically shut down. So, we did the next best thing – we went to the Tibetan plateau.
The Chinese government, in an effort to promote tourism to Zhongdian, has re-named the area "Shangri La" so you will see it referred to by both names.
On the way to Zhongdian, we stopped at Tiger Leaping Gorge. This is a spot where the Yangtze river makes a 180 degree turn, and the gorge is so narrow that – legend holds – a tiger could leap from one side to the other. We hiked down 475 (!) very steep steps, to the gorge. It is a huge tourist attraction but I have to say, it was no big deal. The worst part was that you have to hike back up 475 steps!
TIGER LEAPING GORGE
After the hike, we had lunch near the gorge. Apparently they gave us the kiddie table…
LUNCH ON THE DRIVE TO ZHONGDIAN -- AT THE KIDDIE TABLE
CHEERS!
…then we drove on to Zhongian, and the Banyan Tree Ringha.
Zhongdian is at about 12,000 feet elevation. It was C-O-L-D! We checked into our renovated Tibetan farmhouse, made some hot chocolate, started a fire, and snuggled in!
THE TIBETAN PLATEAU:
SUNRISE ON THE TIBETAN PLATEAU
THE BANYAN TREE
The next day, we woke to snow! We learned why they cover their doors with blankets – it sure helps keep the cold out! We piled on every coat and sweater and headed out to explore the Tibetan plateau. We went to a national park and hiked around the lakes there, including a holy lake, Bitahai Lake.
THE ENTRANCE TO OUR VILLA -- NOTICE THE BLANKET OVER THE DOOR
SNOW!
THE BANYAN TREE GROUNDS -- MUCH MORE RUSTIC THAN LIJIANG...
QUESTION: ARE WE HAVING FUN YET?
ANSWER: NO!
ME, WALKING TO BITAHAI LAKE
A DRY SPOT! BITAHAI LAKE IS BEHIND US
After our stroll in the snow, we headed to town for some traditional Tibetan food – yak meat and yak butter tea. I had heard it yak butter tea was terrible, so I was pleasantly surprised when it tasted like warm buttery milk (with undertones of yak). Actually, the food was quite good!
A YAK BUTCHERY
After our yak lunch, we headed to the Songzalin Monastery – one of the largest Buddhist monasteries outside of Tibet. We spent quite a bit of time exploring the monastery and learning a bit more about Buddhism, then headed back to the warm and dry Banyan Tree for the night.
SONGZALIN MONASTERY
THERE ARE STAIRS EVERYWHERE WE GO!
THE MONASTERY
THIS OLD FELLOW TAGGED ALONG WITH US AS WE WALKED THRU THE MONASTERY, THEN FINALLY ASKED TO TAKE PHOTOS WITH US
ONE OF MANY STATUES
A MONK
ROGER HAD TO TAKE A PHOTO OF THEIR CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES
ME IN A TRADITIONAL TIBETAN COAT -- PROVIDED BY BANYAN TREE TO SURVIVE THE WALK TO DINNER!
The next day, we got up early and headed to our next destination, GUILIN. But first, some random photos of the Tibetan plateau...
A VIEW OF THE MONASTERY
TRADITIONAL PRAYER HUTS
I THINK WE HAD THIS GUY FOR LUNCH...
PRAYER FLAGS -- AN ANCIENT TIBETAN BUDDHIST TRADITION -- AND WHGAT A VIEW!
AT THE AIRPORT, WAITING FOR THE FLIGHT TO GUILIN...
DOESN'T HE LOOK HAPPY?
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